Sunday, October 21, 2012

2:00 a.m.


For most ordinary human beings, on occasion, midnight is a perfectly acceptable time to lie down for bed before entering the office the next day.  An addicting TV show, chatting with friends, or perhaps scrambling to make up for a day of procrastination – any of which is a perfectly reasonable excuse to push one’s waking hours to the 12:00 a.m. mark.  However, habitually, breaking this p.m./a.m. barrier makes for a dreary day-to-day existence.  With a consistent 6:00 a.m. wakeup call, time must eventually be set aside to compensate for lost sleep.

This is why still being conscious to see “1:00 a.m.” on a clock during a normal workweek is a stark indicator that something has not gone as planned. And furthermore, once the clock has struck 2:00 a.m., few additional signs are needed to suggest that a total breakdown has occurred. There are very few reasons why one should still be pacing around his or her apartment a mere four hours before he must arise and begin preparing for the next day.

It’s 2:00 a.m. here right now.  The ceiling light is on in my living room, all my valuables are hidden, and my new purple foldout couch is quite irregularly positioned in front of the doorway, purposefully serving to prevent any unwanted entry into my humble abode…

...Four hours earlier...

After a Skype call home, I walked back to my room through the underground shopping mall, which serves as a very useful and entertaining foundation to my apartment complex.  I took an elevator up to the 11th floor, and upon arriving at my unit, groceries and laptop in hand, I attempted to unlock my front door. However, I experienced some difficulty in unlocking the lock. Attributing this inconvenience to having previously had two hands full of food and electronic equipment, I patiently placed my belongings onto the floor. I then made a second attempt to turn the key.

This time, however, I immediately recognized an urgent problem.  Despite having released 20+ pounds from my grip, thereby significantly improving my dexterity and coordination, I still could not open my door.  The key turned stubbornly about 45 degrees to the left and refused to rotate any further.  Any additional tinkering with the door would be futile; the lock was undoubtedly broken.  Entering my apartment would now be transformed from a mindless, routine task into a cross-cultural fiasco of confusion and frustration.

Refusing to give up, I carefully toyed with the lock and key for a good 15 minutes. After only 3 days of living at this place, I truly didn’t want to resort to a 10 p.m. call to my new landlord. The guy doesn’t live anywhere near by.  And even if I had wanted to make calling him my first attempt to resolve the problem, it would not have done any good; of course, I did eventually make the call, but to no real surprise, there was no answer.  In fact, after multiple attempts over the course of another 20 minutes, reaching the owner began to seem like a lost cause. 

This was a problem. See, getting most anything accomplished in this country – when that “anything” falls outside your individual realm of expertise – is a matter of having already formed a close and personal relationship with another individual who does have that expertise.  And the time required to cultivate that sort of relationship with someone seemed like it might be longer than the time between that instant and when I wanted to lie down for bed.   

Serving to further exacerbate the situation was the fact that in order to rent an apartment on a monthly basis in Indonesia, you are technically supposed to have already obtained an official visa, namely, one which doesn’t explicitly state that you are a TOURIST, and that you must exit the country within 30 days.  At the time, unfortunately, this was all I had.  And to boot, guess what, that was also locked in my room.

Begrudgingly, I took the elevator back down to the security desk and looked into the eyes of two Indonesian guards, with whom I’d not yet had the chance to meet, after only 3 days of staying at the apartment.  For all they knew, I had just walked up from the mall downstairs to visit a friend. 

Suffice it to say that the interaction was somewhat painful. 

“Soooo…. You live here?” Okay, which apartment do you own? …oh, you’re renting? I don’t have you on the list… so, you just moved in? hmmmm.  Why don’t you call your landlord.  Oh, he didn’t pick up?  You should try him again.  Still no answer? We’ll, just need to make a copy of your visa then.  Oh, no visa? Well, at least let us make a copy of your passport.  Huh, don’t have that either?”

...head of security enters...

“Okay, so you don’t have any official Indonesian I.D. You don’t have anyone who can vouch for the fact that you live here, and you can’t get a hold of your landlord?  If we open this door for you, I really, really…. REALY hope that you actually do live here.  And I really, really… REALLY hope that your passport is actually inside. Understand?”

So, after a pretty obvious threat from security, I was escorted upstairs by two guards and a very suspect looking “locksmith,” who appeared to be about 14 years old, wielding nothing more than a rusty hammer and a bent icepick.

Another noisy hour of banging at my door went by, and after a sufficiently large pile of sawdust, paint chips, and metal shavings had accumulated at my threshold, the door miraculously opened.  But unfortunately, it had not occurred to the staff to bring any replacement parts. This, of course, presented the obvious problem of not being able to again lock, or even close, my door.  But more immediately, it meant that – unless I wanted to leave my apartment completely unattended with a door flapping in the wind at 12:00 a.m. in an unfamiliar environment – I was going to have to entrust the apartment staff with the most important document I have, so that they could go make a copy, while I guarded all my possessions.   And their sense of urgency of making the copy of my passport was discomforting, so I had to let them do it, seeing as how they would not accept a copy that I had already made.

The copy of the passport literally took another hour, which seemed even longer…

And that takes me back to the beginning of the story.  I had to get some sleep after my passport was finally returned to me. So, I moved my couch in front of the door. That way, if anyone wanted to enter, at least they would wake me up with the commotion of having to push passed the couch. 

Miraculously, by 2:30 in the morning, one of the staff members had actually managed to find a replacement lock at a nearby market.  And to my relief, he seemed to install it with a bit more finesse and expertise than the manner in which he had removed the previous one. 

Yes, it turned out to be a dreary and exhausting next day at work, but at least now, I’ve made friends with the guards, they do know I live here, I have a permanent visa, and although I still can rarely ever get a hold of my landlord, no further problems have arisen with the facilities.

After plenty of experience living here, though, that’s clearly not something that I’m going to fool myself into getting used to. :-)

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